My system is about mls, a very small amount while a bucket in bucket system may be 2 litres. At this point you may think I have consumed one too many ales because we now enter a new land of no return. A bit dramatic but you will see what I mean. With my system, a Rubbermaid cooler I have room for about 5 extra litres of sparge water immediately at the end of the mash…. If you do, that mash out water is your top up value. So from the above figures we get a first drain off the lauter tun of about Our original sparge volume needed was about 25 litres so we subtract the first top up of 5 litres which leaves us 20 litres of water to extract the sugars in the grains.
Because of size limitations with the Rubbermaid I do 2 additional drainings of about 10 litres each. My procedure is fairly simple and sparging is complete in about 20 minutes. I achieve the same efficiency with batch sparging as I did with continuous sparging.
Yes you did read correctly. The next action is to collect about — mls off the bottom of the sparge vessel in a jug and recirculate this gently to the top of the grain bed.
I place a piece of aluminium foil with holes punched in it on the top of the grain bed and this helps clarify the wort. Recirculate about 4 or 5 times. This is important as it ensures good extraction rates.
Now open the tap and drain the lauter tun completely into the kettle. I open the tap on my tun fully and never get a stuck mash. Open your tap as much as you are comfortable. Low heat can be applied to this wort collected in the kettle. R 1 is the initial runoff volume. V is total boil volume, or the amount of wort needed in your kettle during the boil to produce the beer in your recipe.
Your recipe has a mash ratio of 1. Since your grain will absorb. This leaves you with 2. Plugged into the first equation, we see:. By carefully and slowly recirculating your wort, keeping your grain bed at mashout temperature, and allowing for a rest with a thorough stirring to get as many sugars as possible into solution before lautering, you can make sure your brew has the highest efficiency possible.
While solid calculations and careful sparging definitely improve your brewhouse efficiency, you can goose it even higher if you:. Every drop of wort you lose to dead space, leaks, or spills means less available sugar for your yeast to convert into alcohol during fermentation.
Repair or replace leaky equipment, and find ways to reduce potential loss by choosing a mash tun and brew kettle that can handle your recipes with room to spare. These are a premium lineup of feature-rich all Stainless Steel Brew Kettles, designed to keep you brewing for a lifetime.
Your local miller is no doubt on the ball when it comes to crushing grains for beer. Over-crushed malts can create a powdery base that has too much flour and not enough grist, and turns into glue when you mash it.
Under-crushed malts, on the other hand, can hurt extract efficiency by not releasing the sugars that will turn into alcohol during fermentation.
The husks help create bulk and space in the grain bed during mashing, allowing for water flow and providing built-in filtration. A useful rule of thumb when setting up your grain roller is to set the mill rollers at or near. But when the grain bed in your mash undergoes chemical changes due to temperature, improperly crushed grains, or simple user error hey, it happens to all of us , you can find yourself dealing with locked-up, goopy grains.
The best way to tackle the sticky issue of a stuck batch sparge is to prevent it from happening in the first place. You can keep things flowing with a few simple preventive measures. You can prevent this by keeping your mash tun insulated with a heavy blanket or insulating mats. Hands-down the best digital thermometer for brewing. Worth the price times over. Rice hulls will encourage optimal flow and extraction efficiency.
Begin with a modest flow and gradually open the valve all the way to ensure you get every drop of wort needed to brew your beer as intended. It does take careful attention to your recipe. Each blind participant was served 1 sample of the batch sparge beer and 2 samples of the fly sparge beer in different colored opaque cups then asked to identify the different one. These results suggests a pale lager made using the fly sparge process is reliably distinguishable from the same beer made using the batch sparge process, at least to this particular panel of tasters.
Responses regarding preference and ability to correctly identify the batch sparge beer yielded nothing of meaning, as responses were split pretty evenly on each question. In conversations following completion of the survey, several panelists who were correct on the triangle test used adjectives such as crisper, drier, and hoppier to describe the batch sparge beer, which to me seems congruent with the fact it starting at a lower OG. But who knows? My Impressions: Chock one up for the panel!
Armed with my bias, knowledge of the variable, and hubris, I believe I was able to identify some of what the panelists were saying, particularly that the fly sparge beer seemed a bit maltier, richer, and fuller, if only ever so slightly, and like the panelists, I had no preference for one over the other.
With over 0. Maybe this is an overly simplistic perspective, or perhaps just my desire to maintain the position that identical beers can be produced using either method. Are you a die hard fly sparger, a cheap and easy batch sparger, or do you BIAB? Perhaps you started with one method and switched to another?
Whatever it is, please share your experiences in the comments section below! If you enjoy this stuff and feel compelled to support Brulosophy. Mash in 24L 6. Very nice exbeeriment. Before I was a fly sparger and mashing with continuous recirculation. I can go out when I mashing, and my brew day is a little short.
My efficiency has decreased. For another similar exbeeriment, would be good try to get similar OG worts knowing your efficiency in both methods. Plus during the fly sparge process…I just sit back and drink beer. Great read. Perhaps fly-sparging would be more appropriate for certain styles of beer stouts, bitters, etc.
The Brits would batch sparge gyle their recipes, so it always made more sense to me to batch-sparge British styles. I have done several decoctions and always fly-sparge when I have done so, for no particular reason. I always fly sparge and have never batch sparged.
It would be nice to save some time though. If I had a system designed for fly sparge from the get go, it would probably be only a little worse than batch in effort required, and likely almost no difference in total time. I started batch sparging recently and plan to stick with it. My methods for 5 gal. Sit 5 min, verlouf and drain quickly to get final wort volume. Do you have any suggestions to get typical efficiency?
Thanks and keep up the great work! Ray — Could you possibly add a few comments regarding the time difference between the 2 methods on brew day? What was your fly sparge duration and what was your lautering device false bottom, braid, bazooka, etc? You can get the vessel details on the ThermoBarrel Review.
Looking at getting a ThermoBarrel. Is the flow rate good when running off? I see you have a barb with tubing attached to the ball valve. Yes, you NEED to have a piece of tubing on the outlet to get it to siphon, otherwise like anything it will not drain below the level of the valve.
It was something I was concerned about, but in retrospect it drains better than my cooler did. Love it. Great xbeeriment. However, I gotta say after reading this site for a while and a few others I have done some batch sparging now and think I am turning to that.
The other that I tried I nailed it at Both great beers and so much easier than fly sparging. Started out doing extract kits. Got myself a converted cooler started to batch sparge. After several batches. I needed to shave some time. As it is better for me at this time. With this knowledge, any chance I get to share I do.
Your results, the xBmt s , The Brulosohy website. Awesome Work! Thanks again for another great xBmt Marshall! I have brewed with all 3 methods, Fly, batch, and no sparge. This xBmt is interesting, I got slightly higher efficiency by batch sparging over fly. But I think a lot of it had to do with stirring at mash out. And this would often cause issues with stuff getting through the false bottom and make it tough to vourlaf. I mash in I get can get slightly higher efficiency with fly if all is well dialed in, and I am attentive.
The time, the ease, the consistency is tough for me to beat. Do these different times mean the fly-sparged batch had longer conversion time as well as a different lautering method? Ben — I am really guessing on the times. Cool idea mike. No pun intended. Last batch I mashed in with 8. Your xBmt could not have come at a better time! If I ever were to fly sparge, I would be interested to know how much temperature the sparge water looses when doing a fly vs batch. Where I live, at this time of year the ambient temperature in my garage has been as low as -2 F.
Higher water temps, insulation, etc. No plans on switching to fly sparge, although I was always curious about what kind of differences it would produce.
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