This extra air increases the amount of power that your vehicle can produce. This lag time is called turbo lag. While this increases how quickly the turbo can spool, it also decreases overall airflow, which reduces overall turbo effectiveness. Upgrading your blow-off valve is all about improving the effectiveness of your turbo.
An upgraded blow-off valve gives you a more responsive unit, decreasing turbo lag and giving you a more effective turbo. However, you might end up increasing the overall amount of noise that your blow-off valve creates. Furthermore, know that this is not going to be as effective as downsizing your exhaust downpipe.
Turbo spool is the time it takes from when the turbo starts building pressure until it reaches full pressure. You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Thread starter spawn87 Start date May 25, Sort by date Sort by votes. My1GLaser Proven Member. Search shimming the wastegate or something similar. It sounds like the flapper is hung open slightly. That thing should be in full boost by 3k.
Upvote 0. My non ported 14b spikes to 20psi at rpms, check for boost leaks, if you don't have any then either have exhaust leaks pre-turbo or your wastegate is opening prematurely.
Dsmj89 Proven Member. I agree with the guys above. Try spraying some wd40 around the wastegate flapper arm area, let it sit for 5 minutes, and take it for a spin and see if that helps unstick the arm.
Those turbos as stated should be spooled around the rpm range. If yours isn't spooling until after then you have some good pre-turbo exhuast leaks. Make sure all your bolts are nice and tight and that your gaskets aren't bad either. Dsmj89 said:. Click to expand But it's more likely that you have boost leaks, do a boost leak test first, it should be regular maintenance on a turbo car. Make sure you have no exhaust leaks, if you don't you may have a cracked turbine housing by the wastegate flapper.
At the other end of the spectrum are monster race turbos. These turbos will require very high volumes of exhaust gas just to get them spinning. This means no usable boost until rpms or more. This kind of turbo can produce enormous boost levels and huge horsepower numbers, but the car will be practically undrivable on the street, with weak low-rpm power, abrupt on-boost transition, and huge top-end power.
Have you ever played Gran Turismo and had the Nissan Skyline with all the mods? It's like driving that Here is some data Yes, that is time in seconds at the bottom : - My boost goes up to What gear are you in? With the boost settings that give me a non-overboosty 15 psi in , I only get about psi in 2nd and barely any in 1st I shift early to avoid spinning up the turbo to full boost.
I found that going for the full 15 in 2nd gives me traction problems. I find it is useful when suspecting a gate problem to run two tests: 1.
Drag the brake if needed to get a good read. Jam the gate closed with whatever. The reading should be only slightly better this time, no gate cracking but clearly not significant.
If a bunch better, there is a gate problem. No change of overboosting at such slow changes in fifth gear. That is probably a 2nd gear pull. Is it the best gear to tune in - not at all.
0コメント