Cost is obviously a major factor and it is fair to say that on the whole parkerizing compares well to the alternative processes. You must be logged in to post a comment. Facebook-f Linkedin Twitter.
What is Parkerizing, how does it work? October 18, EngineeringClicks. Parkerizing is a method used on ferrous metals to create additional protection from corrosion There are a number of ferrous metals suitable for parkerizing which include wrought iron, cast iron, steel and alloy steel although the process is not suitable for plastics The process uses three tanks; to clean the surface, apply the solution and the wash away any excess Commonly associated with automobiles parts, firearms, military arms, aircraft parts and used on large a scale by the Marine Corps.
The process is also known by a number of alternative names such as:- Phosphating Phosphatizing Bonderizing Phosphate coating Description of parkerizing Glock 17 pistol with a black Parkerized topcoat The apparatus used in the parkerizing process consists of three tanks. Share on email Email. Share on facebook Facebook.
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Proceed as follows: 1. Use one whiskey jigger of Phosphoric Acid per gallon of water. Add one whiskey jigger of the powdered Manganese Dioxide per gallon of water to the solution. Bring the solution to an extremely slow rolling boil. Best results are at or just under the boiling point. Now add your biscuit of steel wool. The steel wool will bubble and froth as it slowly dissolves. If your pot is too full of water, it may bubble over the sides. Once you have cleaned the part, you should handle it with gloves, never greasy hands, and store it wrapped in clean paper towels awaiting the Parker bath.
The only way to tell is to try. Place a wooden stick across the top of the pot and suspend the parts in the solution using steel or iron wire. DO NOT use painted coat hangers or any wire with grease on it! The parts should be totally immersed in the solution, knowing that anywhere the wire touches the part or the part rests against the container will not become coated or may take a different tone.
When you withdraw the part, immediately rinse it in hot running water to remove the solution. If you use extremely hot water the already heated part will dry itself. The parkerizing solution itself is available from Brownells. There are two different kinds, zinc and manganese. The process is the same for both; they just have slightly different appearances the manganese is typically darker.
If you have a particular preference, then go with the type to produce that. As with most firearm finishes, the prep work is more work than the actual finishing process.
Surface preparation is key to a quality finish. Parkerizing will not cover blemishes on the part surface. Fortunately, the process of sandblasting your part will remove a lot of the less significant blemishes. Bigger blemishes should be cleaned up prior to blasting. If you want to refinish a part that is particularly greasy, then you should degrease it prior to blasting it. Glass beads will not rough up the surface enough in my experience anyway for the parkerized finish to have the desired thickness and hence durability.
There are a few additional things necessary to do before putting the parts in the tank. If you are parkerizing a barrel, you should put some plugs in it to keep the parkerizing solution out of the bore. Brownells sells a set of rubber plugs just for this purpose, though I have had a little luck finding some of these definitely not all, however at my local hardware store.
Typically, I use non-coated metal coat hangers for this purpose. When I first started parkerizing at home, I just used a bucket of simple green for this purpose. I actually had pretty good luck with it for the most part. A hot or degreasing method not boiling is definitely preferable, as it will clean your parts much more thoroughly.
So I use an additional tank for this purpose. For the actual degreasing solution, there are a lot of options out there. You want to make sure that your parts are suspended in the tank, not resting on the bottom of it. The tank needs to be degrees ideally. In a perfect world, these will continue until your part is done. However, if your part is still bubbling at the minute mark, just go ahead and take it out of the tank. Then apply some oil to them.
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