The remaining one's passed due to Neon Tetra Disease. I hope you have much better luck than I did. I saw the nipping with my own eyes and the next morning I would find 2 or 3 stuck to the filter with no tails.
Best wishes! I wonder why they would go that far. I can't imagine they do that to eachother all the time in nature, seems it would make schooling counterproductive. Schooling is more a defense mechanism to make the fish feel comfortable and ward off larger prey. If there are no prey then it becomes entirely social. The pecking order can be more highly disputed when members of your school are 'disposable'. That's how I see it, anyways.
As natural as you make aquariums, unless you introduce a predator for everything Perhaps the presence of my betta will straighten them out a bit. Long as he doesn't actually get aggressive. Not quite what I meant lol! It could work, though. The betta may actually help make them work together. I only intend to try it because AkarI has successfully kept him with other fish before. Should he get too aggressive I can put them in my 29 gallon with my dwarf gourami.
Sounds like a plan, then. I have been keeping neons for 8 months and seen this problem come and gone. The few things that always worked for me - 1. You need to have good plantation, I see plants floating but that does not provide them quick place to hide and seek.
The peacable is little tricky to get in and out and to learn. If possible add some big tank mate, that is community natured. They will school nicely and look good too. Lastly low lights helps but you need good light for plantations so again, go back to point 1 a dense plantation will help. In my experinece Neons love plantations and it will keep them healthy and happy. I'm working on planting the quarantine tank more heavily. I'm slowly transferring new java ferns in that are ready to be detached from their mother plant.
Meanwhile I'm hoping the pennywort grows. They will only spend a few weeks in this tank, at least, assuming they don't show signs of illness or anything. Well, I have the same problem, I got 4 males and a female, this is what I have observed in 24h. So what it worries me is that they seem to not know what food is, I feed them 2 times before and the "loner" is wise and he eats all the time, but the others are kind of "blind" in a sence they can see the food but don't know what it is?
Fish that normally spend a lot of time moving often swim into currents to force more water across their gills.
It's not a behavior that's a big warning sign by itself, like flashing against the gravel or swimming upside-down. White skirts aka black skirts are fairly active tetras , so it might just think it's on its way somewhere new and exciting. For the most part, this will usually falls into the class of harmless fish activities that make perfect sense to them, and none whatsoever to humans. If the fish isn't just trying to explore, there are a lot of things this could be, some scary and some not.
It may be irritated by some external parasite. It might have lost a big fight with a higher-status shoalmate. Impossible to say for sure. One thing I'm not clear on is whether this is new or recurring behavior, and whether it's continuous or sporadic. Changes in established behavior are always important to watch, because they're often symptoms of some other change you don't know about yet. But if I remember your other questions correctly, I think this tank was set up about a month ago, right?
So it's a bit early for them to have completely settled in yet. If you've just seen this behavior once, it's likely that it's just a fish being weird. If this fish has stopped doing anything else though, it may be a symptom of something.
Keep an eye an all your fish for any other changes over the next few days: changes in body darkening or gill lightening color, white spots or patches which will obviously be hard to spot on this particular species , bloody streaks, loss of appetite, weak or spiraling swimming patterns, and so on.
As long as you don't see any of those, there's not much cause for concern. This question is a bit like asking "Why does Sally like Pizza" and thus I'm a bit reluctant to answer it as all animals have their own personalities.
You say your school size is 8, while usually a minimum of 6 is recommended for schooling fish, after living in a large school at the pet store, it is likely the fish is feeling a bit naked and unprotected, and thus is feeling at bay. Moreover, fish like to swim upstream to get more water-flow to flow over their gills, and thus more oxygen into their blood. Once again this is a sign of stress, and could also mean the oxygen levels in your tank are too low.
But, if you are thinking of increasing the number then, have a tank of 20 gallons. As Tetras are mid-water fish, a taller tank would be awesome for them to move around more comfortably. Tetras are very active and they need more energy to perform their activity. It is very important to feed them correctly, properly, and every day. Further, Tetras have a very small mouth. Rather than flake food, it would be better to feed them with pellet food such as Sinking-Micro Pellet.
Also, you can treat them with Frozen Bloodworms or vegetable material. Do not forget to chop them into pieces, as mentioned above, they have a small mouth and can choke. Learn more about the Neon Tetra diet and Feeding habit here. Neon Tetras need filtration to introduce air into the water so that there is a place for beneficial bacteria to grow.
Or, if you are familiar with fish keeping, and know what you are doing, then you will acknowledge the relationship between the planted tank and underlined layer.
In such a case, no filtration also works fine. Moreover, even though Neon Tetras have no specific need for filtration, however, go for the GpH Gallons per Hour rating, and get four times your tank size. Neon Tetras are gradually developed in dark brown water. And, if you are raising eggs and fry, no light at all. They are sensitive to light. They can get killed. Additionally, if you want to decorate your tank with plants, a floating plant would be perfect. They provide shade to your Neon Tetras.
Having green plants will give a natural look to your Tetras. Furthermore, Tetras being a tropical fish, they survive in a warmer environment.
Keep your tank at 72 degrees F — 76 degrees F. If they are breeding, make it 75 degrees F — 76 degrees F. As mentioned above, Cichlids, Barbs, and Goldfish are not compatible with your Tetras. Usually, Neon Tetras breed when they are 12 weeks old. You can keep adults in a separate tank and leave the breeding ones alone.
Neon Tetras are comfortable with Cardinal Tetras. Besides, to establish a breeding environment, first have about a inch long tank and fill it with rainwater. Then, keep the tank 75 degrees F — 76 degrees F warmer.
Put some stuff like Java moss or spawning matt to avoid hungry parents from eating eggs. Within a couple of weeks, you will be amazed seeing little Neon Tetras, coming out showing their shimmering color. Neon Tetras catch infection very soon so, you must be prepared to diagnose and treat ill Tetras. They get affected by a disease caused by a protozoan organism, Pleistophora Hyphessobryconis. Honestly, there is no particular treatment for Neon Tetra disease. You have to separate the infected fish from the tank to stop spreading to other fish.
You must keep infected fish in a hospital tank, and can try treating with Kanamycin. Check the article on Tetra Fish Diseases and Treatments. To sum up, as prior mentioned, Neon Tetras are not aggressive by nature, but the circumstances around them trigger their aggressiveness. Friendly natured Neon Tetras serve your home with peace and positivity. I know they are a bit sensitive, but beautiful creatures to have as a pet.
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